Bamboo River-Rafting

Bamboo River-Rafting

A Uniquely Jamaican Experience

Of all the shore excursions offered by cruise ships, none is more unusual than bamboo rafting on the rivers of Jamaica, the third largest of the Caribbean islands. This rafting will never qualify as a thrilling, white-water sport. Languid is a much more accurate description of this shore excursion, for as you float on any of the four rivers, you're seeking relaxation not spine-tingling thrills.

rafting

And relax you do, gliding past lush, colorful, tropical vegetation, sometimes spooking wild birds, with scant signs of civilization, and always far from the hurly-burly of everyday life. The river murmurs softly as its shallow, transparent waters eddy, sometimes tumble over the clearly visible rocks. Originating in the Jamaican mountains, none of the rivers is particularly deep or long, but each is fascinating.

You won't need sea-sick pills--or life jackets. A float lasts from one to three hours, depending upon which river you're rafting. Seated on a raised deck, large enough for only two passengers not overly broad-beamed, you ride on a raft from 25 to 30 feet long and four feet wide, depending upon the size of the bamboo. It floats with main deck awash, as you watch your raft pilot steer with a long pole. Positioned forward on the main deck with pants rolled up to his knees, your pilot dexterously maneuvers the raft to avoid submerged boulders, and shoves mightily when the raft goes aground on shallow bars.

Sitting on your throne-like seat, you have nothing to do but relax and enjoy the scenery slowly unfolding before you and your camera. Some river-men are loquacious and natural travel guides. Some attempt to hawk some hand-carved souvenirs (not made in China). Others are strictly business, with no time for small talk. All are licensed river pilots and know the vagaries of the rivers they raft.

There are four rivers on which floats are offered--Rio Grande near Port Antonio; Martha Brae in Falmouth; Great west of Montego Bay; and White in Ocho Rios. All but one of the names are conventional. However, the Martha Brae has an unusual name, and an intriguing legend to go with it. Local tradition says it's named for an Arawak Indian maiden who killed herself after being pressured by the Spanish conquerors to reveal the location of a gold mine. The legend claims she finally agreed to lead them, but upon reaching the river created a magic spell that caused the river's course to change and drowned herself along with the gold-hungry Spanish.

The idea of bamboo raft floats began in the 19th century as a more efficient means of transporting bananas from the plantations to cargo ships waiting at Port Antonio. In 1871 a smart Yankee captain (naturally) decided rafting was much easier than walking, and started the idea that became a tourist fad years later.

The movie star Erroll Flynn is credited with making bamboo rafting popular. He discovered Port Antonio, fell in love with the area, and bought Navy Island as a home. He hired rafts for floats for his friends, and encouraged raft races--hardly speed contests.

As tourism grew on the island, rafting as a tourist attraction spread elsewhere. And using bamboo rafts for banana hauling gave way to a faster means--trucks. Originally the rafts were dismantled after a float, and the bamboo either sold or discarded. Now the rafts are hauled back upstream to their launching points to accommodate the next bus-load of cruise passengers lined up for a ride.

Try it, and you'll agree that languid bamboo rafting is an unusual way to get a glimpse of Jamaica. But don't worry about the Martha Brae legend--the rivers don't change courses.